But there are no songs written about Eromanga.
Its an old town dating back to 1879 but there’s not much left that hasn’t been eaten up by rust and general decay (despite the oil). Today its only significance is oil – about 150 million barrels year, and its own small scale refinery. We filled with the local diesel at ‘only’ $1.66 but compared to Thargomindah, cheap. Opal mining has played a part in the area as well as sheep and cattle but there is very little evidence of any of these things other than in the ‘long paddock’ which we discovered on departure.
The pub also dates back to the 1880’s but is well disguised as a tin shanty despite being substantially built from locally made bricks.
The caravan park/motel we stayed in was probably one of the worst we’ve yet experienced. Yes, it was only $20.00 for the night but I’m glad we were self contained. I did try the showers but the hot was cold and the cold colder. The mould must have accumulated in warmer times…..
We connected to the water only to be told by the management that they wouldn’t use it and that they relied on rain water only. Don’t know what the poor “guests” did in their ‘dongas’. Heading out….
was a challenge.
Oil is part of the landscape although most of these rigs are out of sight from the roads we are able to travel…
On to Quilpie where we hope the accommodation is of a higher standard. Whilst hereafter there are patches of road that two vehicles may pass on, most is just one single lane of black stuff nearly all the way from Eromanga to Quilpie. Mind you this has been so from as far back as Eulo except there have been no passing lanes. I learnt to play bluff with anything smaller than me but very quickly slowed and off-roaded for the road trains. In fairness the locals nearly always drove off the road and came to a stop to allow us to pass but we were told it is a matter of self preservation cos like us they only get one free windscreen a year from their insurers too.
I know I stopped in Quilpie when Keith Layton and I did Birdsville back in 2005 but I’m damned if I remember it. We spent some time in a pub chatting with locals and a pipe engineer who told us a lot about the mechanics of the oil and gas pipes but the only pub in town today is not what I remember. I’m sure its even on the other side of the road, but the publican tells me its been the only pub since 1982 so I guess I am headed for early alzheimers.
Sunday in Quilpie is not bustling. We’ve stopped here cos the mail is being delivered to the PO, but it turned into a two night stopover in a reasonably good caravan park cos all the mail didn’t arrive before Tuesday. It was a pleasant stopover with a roaring campfire each night in the community area (even though the temperature didn’t fall below 24), artesian spas and good modernised facilities.
As you can see, the church got the better part of the deal in opals and over in the convent I’d reckon the nuns had the greatest amount of fun on the fire escape.
Jude and I with Robyn following made up the traffic on the main street. It was a bit busier on Monday – think I counted 10 or so vehicles as we walked into town from the caravan park.
The information centre was good with a small localised museum and a gallery displaying photos as part of a local competition. It was also nice to be able to buy some fresh bread at a reasonable price, a luxury we’ed been without for many days (bread purchased in Thargomindah came from Quilpie and I reckon it was via camel train).
By now we’ve spent more nights in caravan parks than we have in ‘free’ camps, spent more on fuel than I had expected because it’s a long way between anything plus our fuel economy has suffered with the extra 320kg of the new trailer – we’re now averaging 22.9l/100km, up 1.2l from last year. So far we’ve covered about 4500km.
There is not much to report of “outback” Queensland to this point – its pretty flat, pretty desolate and pretty devoid of people (apart from a smattering of nomads of the grey variety). We’ve seen emus, kangaroos, cattle and sheep but nothing very exciting, although we did see one koala at Somerset – pretty wild Huh! There is some history but so far it has all been minor stuff with the possible exception of Jimbour Station.
Well onwards – there is much more to discover.
One Response
I’m picturing nuns deliberately setting the place on fire to escape down the slide. I believe they sign a pact with god to avoid any joy, so sneakily they get some(joy) by burning their sisters and watching them use the escape.
Good time, Good times indeed.
JP